Scour the guidebook for Funchal, bypass the main sights, ignore the museums of serious note.  Aha – as every good tat hunter knows – the ex-private house of the eccentric merchant/poet/benefactor lurks in every city.  O the unmitigated joy of the guilt-free collection of absolutely useless objects.  So unfashionable, this childlike amassing of teapots, shells, toby jugs, paper-related objets…

Meet our hero Mr Frederico de Freitas;

His gaff;

His stuff (do not be fooled by the apparent tastefulness of the room – underneath lurks the soul of a market trader)

And a rather riveting exhibition of Martha Telles’ paintings;

The perfect visit really.  Extraordinarily no pictures can be found of the extensive collection of teapots or toby jugs and no chance to snap them as I was stalked through room after enchanting room.  Highly recommended.